Tuk Tuk Travels through Cambodia and Bangkok

OUR TIME IN – CAMBODIA AND BANGKOK

Before venturing to Cambodia, we left Vietnam to meet up with our friends, Joe and Jenn Kistler, on their honeymoon in Bangkok. We know how this is starting to sound, and, yes, you are right, we are official “Honeymoon Crashers“. There was much to see in the capital city of Thailand including one of our favorites, the Jim Thompson House. Jim Thompson was an architect and former CIA agent who after traveling the world fell in love with Bangkok and single handidly helped saved the Thai silk industry. His home was built with six traditional teak Thai-style and is now a museum open for daily tours. A brief stop for street food and a visit to the ice cream truck and we were on our way to the famed Wat Pho, the reclining Buddha. Named for the monastery in India where Buddha is believed to have lived, this large complex was the center for education and medicine. Basically, the origins of the Thai massage!! Here you stroll through temples and can see over 1,000 Buddha images including the largest which is over 160ft long.

Part of the local back scratching culture is to visit certain “stops” and your tuk-tuk driver earns gas cards. Kind of like a video game. We managed to Mario jump over most of these but decided that it would be fun to at least look at some custom suits for Marc and Joe. Three fittings later interlaced with heavy negotiations from the guys resulted in Marc walking away with three pairs of custom pants and Joe scoring two suits – ticker pocket and custom lining to boot. We stayed in the Siem Square area and even toured the local mall, Siam Paragon mall, one of the biggest in Asia. One of our good friends from our time in Bahrain, Annie Kalkman, was home and treated us to a wonderful lunch. We met her adorable son, Max, and wish Jaap was in town but we will all meet up again. It was an amazing trip and we always love traveling with the Kistlers and seeing friends. Everything flew by and before we knew it we were all moving onto our next destinations.

Crossing the border from Thailand to Cambodia on land can be tricky. We remembered all of the advice from other travelers we met and online. Speak to no one, keep moving, do not get in a tuk-tuk without negotiating a direct flat rate to passport control. Oh, and beware of all of the fake passport check stops and phony fees. The day could not have gone any smoother and with only one fee to customs which was put very openly into the border patrols pocket, we were in Cambodia!

The two hour taxi ride in our Toyota Camry with no speedometer the rural border town of Poi Pet to the the Golden Temple Hotel in Siem Reap reminded us of the low country marsh grass in South Carolina mixed with the simple lifestyle of Laos’s riverside. Siem Reap is a bustling town with a laid back feeling filled with everything from high end resorts, Pub Street, and markets galore. Our next morning was the highlight of this town and the primary reason we had come to Siem Reap, the UNESCO World Heritage Site Angkor Wat. Built in the early 12th century, Angkor Wat is the largest Khmer temple complex in the world. We woke up before dawn to meet our tuk-tuk driver for the day. With our pre-made breakfast and lunch packs in hand, we headed out in the darkness to see the fog clear and open to a vast temple city rightfully deserving the title “Eighth Wonder of the World.” We both felt that Angkor Wat had a similar feeling to the Taj Mahal in beauty and wonder. Sunrise is THE time to be here, most notably because with each hour it gets hotter and hotter. Built by King Suryavarman, the complex was originally the capital of the Khmer Empire, the state temple and finallly his mausoleum. As you walk through you find both Hindu and Buddhist reliefs covering every wall and surface reflecting the shigting religious beliefs of the population from Hinduism to the present day buddhist culture It is very interesting to see that through regime changes, images were rubbed out and little Buddhas were inserted to cover the once Hindu art. By noon we had toured almost one third of the huge complex and the heat was begging us to head back to our hotel pool. The size cannot be overstated, there are countless temples sitting on over 400 square kilometers – you can easily spend days walking through this site. It is the largest site of this kind that we have ever seen.

Cambodia was beyond amazing, here are a few additional pictures to enjoy!

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TAKEAWAYS

His

Included in our hotel was a full breakfast, lunch and a take away lunch for the temples, two one hour massages and a traditional khmer dinner. This was all included for $50 a night, my dream vacation. The Cambodian people were some of the nicest we have met and the laid back yet busy culture of Siem Reap made both us want to return to see more of the country.

Hers

Siem Reap has so much more to offer than we had time. Some of our friends did four wheeling and others a full day boar tour. We would have loved to make it to Phnom Phem as well. The history of the Killing Fields and various sites remembering the tragedies of the Kmher Rouge regime are worth a separate trip entirely. As we only had time to scratch the surface this time around, you can be sure that we will be back to visit Cambodia.

Theirs

We have had so much fun hanging out with friends and family all over the world this summer, but the time in Bangkok was one of those surreal experiences where our last three years came together. Joe and Jenn Kistler, our great friends from business school, having lunch with Annie Kalkman, our great friend from our time in Bahrain and Marc’s former boss’s wife, twelve time zones from the east cost was a truly unique experience. We look forward to seeing all of you again soon, even if it is a little closer to home.

SEE AND BE SEEN

Jim Thompson House*

Wat Pho*

Tuk-Tuks

Custom Suit – Bangkok*

Siam Square

Siam Paragon

China Town – Bangkok

Cambodia border crossing*

Golden Temple Hotel*

Pub Street (dinner and markets)*

Angkor Wat*

must do’s*

Good Morning Vietnam

OUR TIME IN – VIETNAM

We immediately lost the laid back feeling of Laos as we drove into the old city of Hanoi. We were “welcomed” to the vivacious capital by negotiating cab fares, loud horns, and motor bike packs that own the highway (and some walkways). We saw a guy with a whole pig duct taped to his motorbike and another guy roasting a chicken on a sidewalk with a propane torch. We first thought we had stepped into an overwhelming ant hill that would be hard to navigate. But after the initial shock wore off, we realized the ants moved around us in a purposeful manner that created quite an interesting burst of commerce. Vietnam is a country bred on war, rebellion and colonisation. The lasting bits of a broken history are spattered all of the culture and throughout the cities. Chinese, who occupied the area no less than four times, have left vast influences on the cuisine, religion and many language influences from Cantonese and Chinese dialect. The French left many years of horrible memories, architectural influences, and the everlasting impact on local cuisine. Including the love of baguettes and coffee.

There are no street laws taken seriously so as they said at our hotel, “Sir/Ma’am please walk confident when crossing the street and don’t stop!” Walking and running across the streets, we headed to the famous Hanoi Hilton. Originally used by the French to hold Vietnamese revolutionaries it was then used by the North Vietnamese to house Americans captured during the Vietnam War. The cells were eerily filled with life-size statues and there were two rooms dedicated to the “positive treatment” of American soldiers. Pictures of regular doctors check ups, basketball games and even celebrating Christmas. John McCain’s flight suit was hanging next to images of his plane being pulled from Truc Bach Lake. It all had a frighteningly dark feeling. Afterwards we headed straight to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum where the man himself lays perfectly preserved in a glass box. Or so we were told. The hour walk we took to the site has us begging for any activity indoors. However, upon arrival, we were told the Mausoleum was closed for the day and the museum was closed for the daily two-hour lunch (how French). After a long day outside we headed back to our hotel for an early dinner at the local hotspot, New Day Restaurant. Famously cheap and filling, we sat with locals enjoying beers and traditional street food cuisine. Rounding out our time, we had to learn a few Vietnamese secrets in the kitchen. Hidden Hanoi cooking school offered a wide variety of classes and we booked our favorite, the traditional street food menu. We made the most amazing spring rolls (made about 50 of them) and traditional Bun Cha with Vietnamese barbecue. We can’t wait to add some our new favorites to game day BBQ (Note: two links in game & day). 😉

A full day trek followed to the Unesco World Heritage Site of Halong Bay. A four-hour drive to our “junk boat” and we were off to spend the day cruising the 2,000 islets that make up this natural wonder. Huge limestone karsts tower over the bay as we made our way to floating fishing village. The mist of the morning lingered as our guide showed us the residents who live on the water year round. There was even a small school sitting on stilts in the water. In the afternoon, we kayaked to explore the caves and islands surrounding the protected oasis. It was a long day but worth it to see one of the new wonders of the world. Plus, how often do you get to play cards on a boat cruising through Halong Bay?

We have been fortunate to see family and friends all over the world. Vietnam was no exception but our meeting was a total surprise! We were preparing for our seven hour overnight train to Sapa from Hanoi when in through the front door walked Joel and Casey Iglehart, friends from home on their honeymoon! They too were booked on the exact same train to Sapa and had reservations at the same boutique hotel. Off we went on the train, which was in a word… interesting. We shared our cabin with a Canadian couple and slept in our single bunk beds. The click clack, click clack eventually put us to sleep, and 7 hours later we arrived in beautiful Sapa. A stark contrast from the city, this hilltop village with terraced rice fields boasts cooler temperatures and a much slower pace. We hiked to the Catcat village and ended up in a local bar (aka a family’s front porch) enjoying Tiger beers with our friends who are moving to the same neighborhood as us in Atlanta for hours. It was nice to catch up on life and enjoy the scenery of lush green hills and an occasional cow walking by with a local boy leading their way home. Our last hike was to an even more remote hilltop village to interact with the tribal Hmong people . We were told to bring a guide so as to not be bothered by the local ladies, but we could handle it….or so we thought. At first the sight of 14 women, wearing large headdress, and smiling ear to ear seemed welcoming. That is, until these local ladies decided to stick with our group as tour guides for the entire day’s hike. They pointed out their homes and made sure we were on the “right path.” By the end, we were old friends and knew that in order to part ways we had to buy some of the local handmade crafts for our tour. Another half an hour later, our tough negotiations ended with us walking away with no money, a scarf, and we think what might be a bottle case. Worth every penny….for the memories of these ladies!!

The trip was full of so many memories, below is a slideshow including a few more.

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TAKEAWAYS

His

I told Erinn I thought that the Vietnamese were smart to show respect to men everywhere by naming their currency “Dong”. Erinn wryly pointed out that the currency is basically worthless trading at 20000 to every $1 USD. Touché, Erinn, touche…

Hers

So this was where my head was, en route to our hotel I kept repeating “thit cho” the local word for dog meat….so that if seen on any menu we RUN. Note: I did read that it is commonly offered in some of the street stalls, just being safe okay. We did not see any dog featured and in the end really enjoyed the local street food culture. While the city was so busy (almost overwhelming) I enjoyed seeing so much of the local history for myself, dog free.

Theirs

Seeing family and friends all over the world has made this trip so special. It was really wonderful to run into Joel and Casey on their honeymoon and catch up before all moving back to Atlanta. From business school, to the streets of Hanoi, the past two years have made new friends for a lifetime. Makes us so thankful that we are all crazy world travelers too!! On to the next one.

SEE AND BE SEEN

Hanoi Hilton/Hoa Lo Prison*

Halong Bay*

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

New Day Restaurant*

Hidden Hanoi Cooking Class*

Overnight train to Sapa*

Sapa*

Hmong Village*

*must do’s

Lost in Laos

OUR TIME IN – LAOS

At the beginning of the entire trip we asked each other what we were most excited about and what we were most anxious about.  Our answers were the same but for different questions – the two day slow boat down the Mekong in Laos. To enter the country we left the Thai side and took our small floating boat across the Mekong in order to immigrate in Huay Xai and catch the two day slow boat down the river where we would eventually arrive in the Unesco World Heritage city of Luang Prabang.  We rushed through the town In order to reserve our spot on the boat but our hurry was not needed.  The 10:30AM scheduled departure eventually left a little after noon.  Such is the way in Laos. As we passed the time, we noticed the French Indochina influence.  We bought pork fried rice, baguettes and pineapple for the trip while watching the locals play the French game, pentanque, that we had played at our house in Provence.

Our first day was a six hour journey into the heart of the Laos jungle where we slept in a little village called Pak Beng.  The next morning we awoke for another nine hours on the mighty Mekong before arriving in Luang Prabang.  While for some, a multi-day trip in the sun of Southeast Asia might seem much more like a chore, for us it was one of the best things we have ever experienced in our life.  Laos is most commonly referred to as a place time forgot since it remains a poor country that still lives on the river.  It hasn’t experience the rapid develoment of many of its neighbors and much of the country is still devoted to subsistence farming, mainly rice cultivation, with 30% of GDP and 70% of employment derived from this endeavor.  Much of the country lacks road access and Pak Beng only received 24 hour a day power three years ago.  As we progessed down the Mekong we passed kids playing by the shore, elaborate bamboo cane poles and line set up for fishing nets, and tiny thatched roofed villages where we would stop to let a local off the boat so he could bring back his goods (usually a bag of rice) from the “city” or to let a monk off at another riverside temple.  The scenery of massive mountains rising in the horizon is some of the prettiest we have ever seen in our lives and the slowed pace of the river was by far worth the effort to arrive in Luang Prabang in the right frame of mind.

After a fifteen hour cruise through the jungle we arrived in the French colonial paradise of Luang Prabang.  The contrast of the city’s riches to the poor rural villages we had spent two days passing was striking. Over 30 different Buddhist temples and monasteries are interspersed with provencial French buildings housing small patisseries where a baguette or crepe are readily available.  All of this is intermingled with traditional Lao restaurants and riverside views on each side of the small pennisula that was first settled  in 698AD.  We spent four days riding bikes into hillside villages to view local silk weaving, strolling through ancient Buddhist temples and chedis, and getting generally lost in the Laotian way of life.  We even woke up before dawn to feed the hundreds of monks that walk the street begging for alms (generally rice) which is the only food they will eat all day. Other Worldy.

Two of favorite stops along the way were the Kuang Si waterfall and the Tamarind Restaurant cooking class.  To arrive at the waterfall we took a tuk tuk 30 km outside of town and were greeted by over ten bears housed in a rescue center. Marc had to eventually pull Erinn away from the Asian bears.  From our experience camping in the Redwoods last fall, Marc knows Erinn is much more comfortable with a fence between her and the big black animals.  From there it was a short walk to the bottom of the multi-step waterfall with crystal blue water.  We hiked to the top in about an hour before returning to the bottom where Marc climbed a tree to swing off a rope into the blue lagoon.  The cooking class was amazingly professional, led by a local young guy named Jai who was about to head to Israel to finish his veterinary studies.  He showed us some amazing dishes that were way beyond our level of competence but hopefully we can bring half of his knowledge back for Lao night at the Pearsons!

Laos was so picturesque we also wanted to include a slideshow, enjoy!

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TAKEAWAYS

Companions, Challenges, and Changes

His

It is impossible to spend 15 hours on one boat with a group of similarly aged people and not make a few friends.  We spent our evening in Pak Beng having dinner with two kiwis, four Brits and a guy from California.  Upon arrival in Luang Prabang we went our separate ways but continued to see familiar faces around and made plans to reunite with some in Hanoi.  Our last night in Luang Prabang we met up with a couple from our cooking class at a local bar that ran an ethnic fashion show and bumped into a friend from Wharton for the third time since arriving in town.  Life in Laos is a small town affair!

Hers

To learn something new is to push yourself outside of your comfort zone. Imaging two days on a slow boat in Laos, was “pushing it” a bit for me however I could not have loved these two days more. Stepping aboard the slowboat to find our makeshift car seat was only the beginning. Making our way down the banks of the Mekong is the only real way to enter Laos. Seeing the local villages, hours of the most beautiful untouched countryside, dropping off monks, picking up locals and just getting on Laos time made these two days a truly unforgettable experience.

Theirs

If you are thinking of traveling in this part of the world soon, we would suggest Laos be on the itinerary.  Luang Prabang is amazing and the countryside is like a step back into the agrarian past.  However, Luang Prabang is booming and construction surrounds the city.  It makes sense – if we were Laos we would be moving into town too.  It seems like the quality of life is much higher than the countryside.  But for the traveller, this means the charm of he city could eventually be eroded by its popularity.  Come soon!

SEE AND BE SEEN

Hua Xai

Slow Boat down the Mekong River*

Pak Beng

Luang Prabang*

Tamarind Cooking Class*

Kuang Si waterfall*

Giving Alms to Monks*

Biking through town*

Ban Xieng silk town

Buddhist Temples and Monasteries*

Ethnik Fashion Show

Sitting Riverside at Utopia and Villa Nagara

Watching the NBA Finals in the morning

Talking Thai, Talking Thai Real Well

OUR TIME IN – THAILAND

After a 29 hour and thirty minute journey from Nice, France that took us on a five hour train trip to Milan, a flight to our old neck of the woods in Doha and yet another great Qatar Airways flight to Bangkok we finally transferred on to Chiang Mai. You know what they say, it isn’t the 29 hours, it’s the last 30 minutes that gets you… If you are going to spend that long in transit, then you better arrive in Thailand (pronounced “Thigh-land”). Any grumpiness from travel immediately dissipates when you are flooded with hundreds of Thai people smiling at you saying Sewadee Ka. From the person outside of customs to our hotel owner, the people couldn’t be nicer. In fact, on our way back from a famous mountain temple constructed in the 1300s, Doi Sutep, a Thai guy sharing a Songthaew with us reached over and handed us what looked like a sausage on a stick. Having been in Germany so recently, this seemed like a normal presentation of food to us so Marc bit right in to find delicious fried rice on the inside. The Thai man just grinned widely as he shared his own with his wife and said he hoped we liked it.

Our favorite food is probably Thai food (we say probably because Marc has been known to eat just about anything so we decided to do a Thai cooking class with Siam Rice Thai Cookery School. For $30 a person we each prepared a seven course meal over six hours while spending time with a few Kiwis, Australians, a German, and a girl from Portland (Boyd and Gina – her first words were Portland is a cool place to live). While the cost was great there was a price to pay. Erinn and Marc prepared different dishes for every course so that means we split 14 different Thai dishes. We also like our Thai spicy so our estimate is that we each had 25 Thai chilies over the course of the day. Needless to say, when the afternoon rains came at 5:30PM our food coma induced us to not leave our room again that evening. We learned a lot and walked away with a thirty page cookbook to help us make our dishes stateside. Truly worth the strong TripAdvisor rating it receives.

Since we had eaten enough to feel like elephants we thought it was time to understand the revered animal of Thailand a little better. There is no better place on earth than Patara Elephant Farm to do just that. We spent an entire day as one on one “owners and caretakers of our elephant”. The farm adopts orphaned elephants and cares for them in a open environment. Erinn’s elephant, Plao (or “Sparkling Gem”) was aptly named and was the smartest of the bunch and Marc’s elephant, Bon-Yen (“Peaceful) was a beastly five ton 14 year old bull with large tusks that ate everything in site including taking down whole parts of trees on our 1.5 hour bareback ride through the jungle over hillsides where we swam with them in a waterfall. The day was not just a tourist joyride, however. Rather, we brushed, bathed, inspected (everything including their poo), and fed our new large best friends in order to get a real understanding of what it takes to rehabilate and improve their lives. They eat over 300 pounds of food per day and require constant attention to avoid falling prey to the disastrous outcomes of the last 40 years in which the Thai elephant population has been halved. It was one of the days we had most looked forward to on our trip and it did not disappoint. Truly a once and a lifetime opportunity. When we left, we gave both of them big hugs and wanted to take them with us but Marc’s insistence on only carry on luggage for the entire 80 day trip made the idea of smuggling an impossibility.

We took our newly learned skills and headed out on the 700 year old elephant trail linking Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai and Mae Sai. Don’t worry, they have updated the trail – now you take the Green Bus on a highway – but it follows the original path that the Lana Kingdom used on the backs of elephants to establish the new capital in Chiang Mai in the 1300s. Oh yeah, then we went to Burma (Myanmar if you are into supporting the oppressive Junta). After multiple bus changes, tuk tuk rides, and songthaew lifts we finally arrived at the border and crossed into a country just now opening up to the western world. The market was quite possibly the cheapest we have been to with three pairs of Ray-Bans costing us 100 Baht. To get in you have to leave your passport with border officials and carry a special document that restricts you to only certain areas of the country.

Our Burmese border adventure was long and hot so the next day we really just wanted to arrive in Chiang Kong, the border town where we would literally float across into Laos. Luckily for us, we found it the perfect town for relaxing. Our hotel had a great view overlooking the Mekong River, included breakfast, and the room was of Starwood quality, shocking given the $28 price tag. We enjoyed a few pre-5pm rain shower drinks with some Vietnemese men who decided a bottle of hard whiskey was a two person meal and prepared for our pending journey into Laos.

TAKEAWAYS
Acknowledge, Absorb, and Average Returns

His
While the day trip across the Myanmar border undoubtly contained a “check the box” element to it, we truly were amazed by the difference in lifestyle between Thais and Burmese. It was a little disconcerting to not have our passport with us but the awkward process is well documented online and well worth the trip to see the market and the different standard of living between the well-to-do Thais and their less fortunate Burmese counterparts. The difference is even more striking when you consider that the border town is an area Burma uses as one of their showcases to the outside world.

Hers
Quite possibly two of the coolest days of my life, back to back. After living in the Middle East and traveling to Thailand, my biggest regret was not taking the time to properly learn to cook our favorite dishes. Siam Rice cooking class was our first of many Asian cooking schools we booked for our trip. Learning that extra pinch of salt, or the spoon full of shrimp paste in the curry was exactly what we were looking for…I am on my way to hosting Thai night at the Pearson’s! Following our culinary experience was a day that totally surprised me. Spending a day taking care of an elephant sounded a bit daunting to me, especially when you pull up and moment one you and multi-ton animals are just hanging out together. Truly a life changing day at Patera. I formed a bond with my sweet girl Plao (rescued from the circus) and knew she was protecting me as much as I was learning from her. “Eat, Live, and Walk like an elephant” were the mottos and lessons to take away from the day…Eat healthy food for a long life, care for your family and watch out for your neighbors, and take carefully thought through steps in life but with purpose.

Theirs
Thailand is a place we could actually spend our entire time in Asia. It is so easy to get around, the people are so friendly, and the food is so delicious that leaving after only a week seems quite quick. Luckily, we have been before and are confident we will return again. In fact, over 50% of tourists that visit Thailand return for a second trip. This is our second trip to the country (first time we went to the beaches) and while on our next trip we imagine it will be back to the beaches, it was great to see how the northern people live and to enjoy their hospitality.

SEE AND BE SEEN
Chiang Mai old town
Night Market
Local food stalls*
Doi Sutep
Siam Rice Thai Cookery*
Patara Elephant Farm*
Tachileck, Myanmar (Burma) market*
Chiang Kong main road
Thailand public bus system and Green bus*

A Week in Provence

OUR TIME IN – THE SOUTH OF FRANCE

After 3 weeks of  being “on the road again…and again,” you could not dream of a better place than Provence. Mas la Monaque, our 17th century farmhouse is more than a place to just rest our heads, its Provincial paradise. Located in the center of Maussane les Alpilles and Mouries, our house allows for easy access to any “major” city in the St. Remy region within an hour (if not a 20 minute) drive. We arrived at our beautiful home ready to set dinner plans in town and immediately decided it was just too good to leave. That night, Boyd and Gina cooked the first of many fabulous family dinners we enjoyed at home.

The next morning, the family grew even larger when Meghan and Andrew (Erinn’s older sister and her husband) arrived from London to celebrate the Queens Diamond Jubilee commerating her 60 years on the throne. Our first stop was L’Isle sur la Sorgue for some must see antiquing. We enjoyed a fabulous lunch along the river, but more importantly walking through the stalls and many open storefronts in the Sunday market we found some amazing pieces of shabby and some totally chic furniture.

Topping a world-famous antique market seems hard to do, except if you are in Provence. Next up on our weekend were the famous wines of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Our tour guide, Jean Marc, was a local and we were very lucky to have him provide our tour. He walked us through the town to his uncle’s classic vineyard Domaine du Banneret, which produces only 10,000 bottles a year using old world production (blending grapes and stems) and labels every bottle by hand with glue and a brush.  Our last and favorite stop was Jean Marc’s beautiful home and vineyard Rouge-Blue, where we sat in his backyard tasting amazing reds and roses with a gorgeous view. Jean Marc’s wife, Kristin, joined us and shared her fabulous life story of a girl from Arizona transported to Provence after falling for Jean Marc in a local hangout (Mistral – one of the name’s of his wine). Her blog was one of the first ever in the region and offers a glimpse at local life through a transported lens from home including a French Word of the Day.

On the way home we paused for a moment about stopping for dinner but not to worry, we had the house chefs working away on a fabulous meal upon our return. Starting with a classic Pimms and cheese plate – (thank you Andrew and Meghan), we nibbled until it was time to get ready for dinner. Yes, we ate until we were ready to have dinner. Sitting down at the outdoor table, surrounded by family, we stopped and could not help but realize what a special moment we had that day. A fabulous meal of fresh asparagus, local lamb and a very American brownie dessert filled our stomachs until we could not stay awake. Saying good night and goodbye to Meghan and Andrew, we hated for the weekend to end.

I promise we planned in advance for the Aix en Provence market. Planned to get up early, planned the drive and even planned the parking. Only thing….we did not plan enough time. Such is life with a car in France. An hour and a half later, we arrived to the central market square with a little shame and a lot of hope that our guide would still want to tour the market and allow us to enjoy the cooking class we had booked months in advance. Whew, our very sweet American tour guide with Wine in Provence was not only still meeting us but so happy that we made the tour!! Buying local produce in the Aix market will spoil you and your taste buds. From the best fruits and lettuce, to the most fresh garlic and shallots, next pop over to the “Fromagerie” for the most amazing selection of cheeses you have ever seen…we could not mess this meal up if we tried. After walking the market and stocking up on everything needed on our list we headed to the apartment to prepare dinner. Learning to properly chop, beautifully arrange, scoop our goat cheese and fold our phyllo pastery…we sat down to enjoy the fruits of our labor and a bit of a wine class as well. Delicious day – below is what we prepared.

• Fresh salad with goat cheese, shallots, tomatoes and olive oil mixed with Herbs de Provence
• Cavillion melons wrapped in prosciutto, with mint topped in balsamic reduction
• Phyllo wrapped asparagus with creme and butter / hazelnut spread
• Desserts were purchased from an award-winning pastry chef in town

 

Driving into Monaco you can almost hear that song…you know….”da da…na-na….da da….na-na.” You can also hear the sound of money leaving your pocket. Four tolls and $60 (per car) later, we get the picture that you have to pay to play here. Our introduction to the city was our hike up the hill to the famous changing of the guard. Next we made our way along the water, past the yachts (and mega yachts), to the Casino de Monte-Carlo. Streets lined with Bently’s and Ferrari’s, you cannot deny that this feels more like a movie set then real life. We briefly walked into the stunning lobby of the Hotel de Paris and imagined what the baked potato soup must taste like at $80 a bowl!! Goodbye Monaco and hello Eze. Truth be told, this magical city is similar to Les Baux but the real deal. Old cobblestone streets and shops make this quaint  village on the cliff worth the walk. Our last night with the family was in Nice, very nice. And we could have spent so many more!!

TAKEAWAYS

His

It was great passing time with the family in an unfamiliar setting while enjoying familiar things. I grew up playing Bocce ball on the beaches of Sullivan’s Island.  We flew across the Atlantic, arrived at the house, and low and behold there sits a court devoted to “Petanque“, a French version of the same game.  When Andrew arrived from London, he told me they had the same game but called it “bowls”.  Whatever you want to call it, it’s a great game, and spending time on the court, by the pool, or at the dinner table was some of the best time spent on the whole trip.

Hers

France has-it-all. Driving from the canals of Annecy, taking in the quaint markets and lavendar fields of Provence and ending with the exotic French Riveira in Monaco and Nice, you can’t help but plan your next trip here on the very first day. We dreamed of two years in Provence and already window shopped for enough furniture for two houses. I loved every second.

Theirs

Wrapping up these fabulous two weeks with family we knew this was a once in a lifetime trip. Not sure when you can celebrate three 30th’s and one 65th birthday, two anniversary’s (3 years and 40 years), a graduation from business school and an engagement all in one trip. Thank you to Lloyd and Margaret Ann for the memories of our lifetime!!!

SEE AND BE SEEN

• Provence*
• Maussane les Alpilles
• St. Remy*
• Mouries
• L’Isle sur la Sourge *
• Chateauneuf-du-Pape *
• French Word a Day
• Aix-en-Provence*
• Wine in Provence (Cooking Class – Tour of Aix)*
• Eze
• Monaco
• Nice*
• Family Vacations*

*must do’s

European Family Vacation Part 2: The Alps

OUR TIME IN – THE ALPS

Finally.. We have our brand new automatic BMW. No more stick shift stalls, no more 30 kilometer per hour reverses down hills into close calls with frozen faced Germans, and most importantly no more shrill, “Ll–ooooiiiyyyd!” screams from the back seat. We – should – be off and running. And really, the key component is this great GPS system. Best in class… We decided, after an unbelieveable dinner in the Unesco World Heritage old town of Salzburg, we were ready to use our new machinery to attack Berchtesgaden and the Eagle’s Nest, the former retreat of Adolf and Eva Hitler (little know fact – married for 40 hours prior to Braun and Hitler’s mutual suicide) in the morning, we began our campaign. We drove directionally right out of the hotel, ready to outflank the leader of the the Third Reich’s old home. After driving for thirty minutes we decided to consult a local scout (aka guy at gas station). He recommended a total about face. We then headed left for forty minutes in order to pursue the outpost where the grand plans for the Nazi assault were hatched. But wait… No one is behind us. Where are Boyd and Gina? We finally returned to base camp (our hotel) to send a signal (email) to our “lost brethren”. It turns out they had left us an hour ago and headed directly uphill and arrived in a grand total of five minutes at our final destination. They both seemed well versed in the gift shop… Needless to say, if we had been in charge of the Normandy Invasion we would all be speaking German today.

Freulein, our newly named GPS system, had some splaining to do. Fortunately for her, she made up for it droves over the next two days. On our way to Neuschwanstein and Liechtenstein she found beautiful little towns along lakes and in mountain valleys where we ate quiet meals with locals. It was amazing to see quaint stops that weren’t ski resorts or large beachside destinations in which high quality is so well maintained.

One of our main destinations on the way was the Neushwanstein Castle which was used by the original Walt Disney as a model to create the theme park. Marc was particularly excited about this for some reason. Maybe he loves the idea of the company that has had the laws changed multiple times to extend the rights on Mickey Mouse ripping off theme park design, who knows. Either way, after one of the prettiest drives in all of Europe we saw it in the distance. There it was. Up on a hill. Pristine backdrop. Everything we imagined. But wait. What was that on the front? Scaffolding? We wanted our Cinderella Castle moment, damnit. Marc was revved up and ready to give the guards their Wally World moment after the twists and turns we had been through over the last few days. No dead aunts on top of the car but a lot of near heart attacks, that’s for sure. But fortunately we saw Fussen which made all think their was no reason for fussing since it is a beautiful place for a stroll and dinner. We eventually toured Mad King Ludwig’s castle and realized the back side was as pretty if not prettier than the front.

Our final two major destinations in the Alps were potentially our favorite cities of the first week of the family trip and places we had wanted to go to on our honeymoon but had been just thirty kilometers in the wrong direction. The three year wait was worth it to see both Liechtenstein and Annecy. Driving into Liechtenstein was everything we hoped. Drastic switchbacks up the mountain and gaping views of the Rhone River Valley led us to Treisenberg (our city – Liechtenstein is technically a country). Our hilltop village took its seat overlooking the capital of Veduz. It was, in a word, perfection, and a great place for high altitude contemplation. Heading down the mountain it was hard to think of a reason to leave but then again our next stop was Annecy. Canals and watermills lined cobblestone streets and we had one of the best meals on the entire trip in this outpost of Geneva. A great entry into France blending alpine views with French cuisine.

Treisenberg, Liechtenstein

Annecy, France

TAKEAWAYS

His

Hollywood does a great job of making us think the US was the only integral force for winning World War II. This casualty fact that we saw at the Eagle’s Nest will change your mind. I love the Greatest Generation, my grandparents, and everything they stand for but looking at the stats show just how much more immediately affected many other countries were by that period in history.

Hers

Annecy is considered the “Venice of Savoie” and rightfully so. This beautiful medieval town is just a day trip from Geneva and filled with pedestrian only streets that beg to be explored. From clothing boutiques to creperies, fine dining and local artisan markets, this peaceful town is a true gem worth taking your time to explore like a local, on foot. Strolling the narrow streets lining the crystal blue canals, I had one (or two) of those “I could live here” moments. To live like a local you would have a café – for hours on end, have your bread delivered fresh – daily, and smile – often because you live in one of the prettiest towns in the world. Annecy, I will be back – I promise!!

Theirs

Traveling with six people across mountainous terrain should be harder than this. I guess the steady stream of large meals, beautiful outlooks, and cute cobblestone main streets makes it pretty easy. The Alps are truly one of our favorite places on earth… And we think that GPS might have finally shaken off those early kinks.

SEE AND BE SEEN
Salzburg*
Berchtesgaden
Isny im Allgau
Neushwanstein Castle*
Füssen
Liechtenstein*
Annecy*

*must do’s

European Family Vacation Part 1: The Romantic Road

OUR TIME IN – GERMANY

After a safe arrival in Frankfurt we were off for day one of the Pearson Family Vacation. Tucked safely in our Peugeot and Ford rentals (both manual might I add – special thanks to our drivers Lloyd and Boyd) we were ready to hit the Autobahn.

The Romantic Road is a 220 mile stretch of highway that is the quintessential peek into Germany both old and new. Ready to pull onto the highway we….we seem to be stopping. A German man with his arms flailing from his window is yelling something at us…”pardon me….beep, beep, beeeep!!” The pungent smell of smoke began to fill our rental car. Ahh, the parking break. A brief thank you and we were again scooting along the countryside on our way to the old town of Kaysersberg, France (note: prior to WWI was a part of Germany). One of the many advantages on our drive is the ability to stumble into an adorable medieval village that somehow rivals the one before.

We were visiting Alsace to taste some of the region’s best wines, including Michele Fonne and Chateau Paul Blanc vineyards. After spending a relaxing hour with Michele’s wife, Patricia, we headed further down the road to meet Paul’s brother, Philippe, who was hosting a rowdy group of Swedes, Germans and a persnickety Sommelier. We quickly were in full swing tossing around opinions, emotions and tons of wine. 30 pours (per person) later…. we were enjoying Pierre’s particularly French way with words. “E-Ello, eello? You are all like books I am storing in my bibliotheque. I will save pages and read each of your experiences later. Oui, oui, I am floating on each of your emotions.” Two kisses (one on each cheek of course) and we headed back to the Romantic Road for more adventures. Note: parking break off.

Strasbourg is considered the “Ultimate European City” where France and Germany quite literally collide. Situated on the border, this city also shares the best of both countries in language, food and architecture. It was easy to see how this town is a must visit and fit for foodies. Sidewalk cafes featuring fois gras, each street with another Michelin option and our dinner at La Cuiller a Pot was a culinary experience. Happy 30th Birthday to Gina!!

After visting Würzburg (pronounced Vertsbergh – thank you Margaret Ann) for a wine festival lunch and sneak peak at the Residenz we arrived in Rothenberg au Tauber. We spent the evening touring the perfectly intact medieval old town led by the Rick Steves’ recommended “The Night Watchman Tour.” Lantern in hand, our guide led us through the cobblestone streets while telling stories of the “good old days” in his sneaky tongue in cheek tone. He warned us all of no crime but if you do choose to walk alone at night, “you can walk the castle wall…or go to Hell” (a local pub open very late).

On the road again and in search of well…lunch, we stumbled into Dinklesbuhl. Yes that sounds as funny as we all thought too and everyone enjoyed a good laugh over the various pronunciations. In Munich, we viewed the famous Glockenspiel (clock tower) and did our best Man Show “Ziggy Zaggy, Ziggy Zaggy, Oi, Oi, Oi” impersonation at the Hofbräuhaus. Beers the size of your head, pretzels the size of your body, and a crowd to boot. Proscht (aka cheers)!!

Our last stop before heading into the alps was the BMW Welt. We had all looked forward to seeing Lloyd’s new car! As we approached the showroom floor, his car spun around to present every angle with Lloyd by its side. Following the car show, we took a tour of the impressive manufacturing facility where BMW produces 700 cars per day and stopped in the BMW museum which has some really amazing vintage cars including two Bond cars and multiple 1930s beamers.

TAKEAWAYS

Efficiency, Exploration, and Early Arrival

His

The BMW plant tour is truly amazing. Every 1.5 minutes a luxury vehicle roles off the manufacturing floor ready for delivery. During the tour, we saw robotics that looked more like the inner workings of an alien spaceship then an automobile plant. While seven hundred cars are produced daily, I am confident less than half of that number of workers are involved in the production. A true feat in efficiency.

Hers

Get lost!! Charming villages mixed with some of the most well preserved medieval towns are only part of the allure to this stretch of highway. Getting lost along the way, not knowing whether or not our car was allowed into the castle wall (sometimes we tested the do not enter signs) and seeing some of the most gorgeous untouched miles of nature before spotting your next castle far away in the distance make this a perfect road trip to add to your list.

Theirs

There are no wrong turns on the Romantic Road but there are wrong times. Insider alert: get here early! If we can stress anything it is that we enjoyed each and every city before the massive crowds. With any trip, it is best to check the high season but particularly for this driving and stopping everyday in a new town. The movement on this trip is daily but the last week of May was perfect with enough space in these tiny towns to feel like you are still discovering the town. A great way to kick off a once in a lifetime family trip.

SEE AND BE SEEN
The Romantic Road*
Michele Fonne*
Chateau Paul Blanc*
Strasbourg
Würzburg
Rothenberg*
The Night Watchman Tour*
Dinklesbuhl
Munich
Dachau
Hofbräuhaus*
BMW Welt Tour*

*must do’s

Pondering Poland

OUR TIME IN – POLANDThe Polish language is truly funny. It is as if a round table was formed consisting solely of kindergartners and clowns to formulate the key characteristics of the language. "What do you think about K’s and Y’s being in every word" asked the clowns. "They’re the best, definitely the funniest letters in the alphabet", exclaimed the kindergarterners and the Polish tongue was born. And after looking at all these funny Y’s on words like "Apartmenty" we are left with a few additional "why’s" about the country itself.

Why don’t we know more people that have visited Krakow. The city has all of the tourist charm and amenities of the great western European capitals at half the cost. It’s square is the largest medieval square in all of Europe. In fact, you can’t capture the whole square in one single picture. We spent our first day lazily strolling Old Town, hitting up bars and cafes along the way. This was welcome relaxation after the overnight Simple Expres bus and Polish Rail train combo from Vilnius via Warsaw the night before.

Why and how did the Holocaust happen? We spent our second day reliving the atrocities of Auschwitz and Birkenau as well as Schindler’s museum. The size of the concentration camps can not be overstated. It extends five miles in length and more closely resembles a large farm than an extermination camp. Over one million people died at this camp alone, an amazing figure when you think that only about 13 million Jewish people are alive today. The day was obviously depressing and sobering but was definitely something everyone should do if they have a chance.

Why is there only a single elevator to get you out of a 400 feet deep hole? On our last day in Krakow, we went to the Wieliczka salt mine where we descended deep into the earth to check out cool centuries old caverns and ancient temples. The place was great but an hour long line at the end to shoot up a Chilean miner style elevator shaft after a two hour visit tested a few people’s bladder.

TAKEAWAYS
Frugal, Frightening and the Future

His
I have been accused of being quite frugal in my day. Let me tell you that Krakow is truly a cheapskate’s paradise. We rented an apartment in the old town for $75 a night that had a kitchen, living room, and a washing machine, a great addition after living out of our packs for the last two weeks. We ate a great meal with a large carafe of wine right on the main square that rivaled any scene in Paris for $35! Truly amazing.

Hers
Words cannot begin to explain or help to understand the Holocaust. It is a frightening time in history but one must remember, discuss and expose the past so that history can not be repeated. Seeing these sites in person was a humbling experience that we will never forget. I am forever moved by the terrible sites as well as the hope and lights of humanity provided in the Schindler factory.

Theirs
Krakow marks the end of the first subset of our trip, our run through Eastern Europe. We’re headed to Germany to meet up with Marc’s family for two weeks of travel through Western Europe. The old Bloc countries have truly exceeded our expectations – everyone should add it to their places to visit in the fuure – and we can’t wait for the next phase of our journey!

SEE AND BE SEEN
Warsaw Old Town
Krakow Old Town *
Auschwitz and Birkenau *
Wawel Castle
Schindler’s Museum *
Kazimierz District(old Jewish Ghetto)
The Wieliczka Salt Mine
Krakow Glowny Train and Bus Station
Any kebab and gelato stand*

*must do’s

Busing through the Baltics

OUR TIME IN – ESTONIA, FINLAND, AND LITHUANIA

While this one is a little belated, we promise to get back on schedule and post a few in row that will make you wish we did not post at all. After an overnight Lux Express Bus from St. Petersburg to Tallinn, Estonia we were desperate for coffee and or an actual hotel room. Unfortunately, we could find neither immediately in a town that can only be described as full on Medieval Times for adults. After making our way down cobblestone streets to our boutique hotel we confirmed it was way too early to check in (6:00AM) and just too early to be functional, so we took a cat nap in the lobby while pretending to read our maps. We weren’t fooling anyone. At 7:50am we hit the streets looking for coffee and breakfast. Stumbling in search of a proper cafe, ie American style, we broke down and went into the cutest McDonald’s ever. It is built into the city wall, has outdoor cafe seating, a separate cappuccino bar, and flat screens playing trendy music videos. Such is life in the newest and fastest growing member of the euro currency. We walked down cobblestone alleyways past large church squares and an intact full medieval wall before coming upon a woman (in full robin-hood attire) practicing her bow and arrow. Normal day here. From atop Toompea Hill you can see why Unesco declared this the most well preserved medieval town in Europe.

The next morning we woke up to head to the ferry to cross the Baltic Sea (technically, Gulf of Finland) to check out Helsinki. At 7AM, Tallinn was still hopping. It turns out Estonia is the capital of stag parties. Nestled between the cute village shops are bars and nightclubs galore. Men dressed as oompah loompas, giant squirrels and just regular groups of drunk people were all still out from the night before.

Helsinki was a great way to make a large leap up the GDP per capita ladder. It is a clean, fun, perfectly functioning European capital. After walking through the Saturday markets we caught a quick boat to Suomenlina Island, a fortress that has protected the harbor through the years. We spent the remainder of the day laying on a rock watching the boats role by with a packed picnic full of local market food and wine. Marc thinks they should make Charleston’s Fort Sumter available for the same kind of good times.

After returning to Tallinn that evening and awaking early again the next day to fight through the nighttime partygoers, we headed out to Riga (check earlier post and be sure to watch your valuables). From there, we travelled again by Lux Express bus to Vilnius, Lithuania. Gorgeous squares, a cute main town and much more posh than we had expected. Young and modernly dressed this city was impressive and ready to entertain. A must visit and our favorite Baltic locale. We toured both the Trakai Island Castle and the Gediminas Castle and had an unbelievable Indian dinner on Cathedral Square. Marc was very upset that he did not see guys dribbling two basketballs at a time in all tie dye t-shirts but that was the only disappointing thing about this country (loved your earlier comment, Justin)

TAKEAWAYS
Bustling, Balmy, and Busses

His
The Baltic region is exploding. I can’t believe how nice each place is and how much energy is in each town. While each place was unique, the common thread was that of economies embracing their recently found place on the world stage with their attachment to the EU and a whole new generation that never experienced Soviet rule.

Hers
Packing for this trip was supposed to be somewhat complicated since the Baltics were supposed to be cold. Instead, we have had 75 degree weather almost every day. I have barely brought out my jacket… Except for the Helsinki day where I took all of Marc’s jacket and sported six layers while enjoying our picnic. Cheers!

Theirs
Busing across the Russian-Estonia border in the middle of the night and chugging down the highways of Latvia and Lithuania into Poland sounds more adventurous and harder than it really is. The busses have had wifi and the roads were close to on par with western European counterparts with a few exceptions. It was an efficient and easy way to get through the region.

SEE AND BE SEEN
Old Town, Tallinn *
Toompea Hill, Tallinn *
Eating bear meat, Tallinn
McDonald’s, Tallinn
Local carnival, Tallinn
Facetiming on the Lindaline Ferry, Gulf of Finland *
Temppeliaukio Church, Helsinki
Suomenlina Island, Helsinki *
Helsinki Cathedral Square, Helsinki *
Old Town, Vilnius *
Cathedral Square, Vilnius *
Gates of Dawn, Vilnius
Gediminas Castle, Vilnius
KGB Museum, Vilnius
Trakai Island Castle, Lithuania *
Lux Express Bus *

* must do’s

Mr. And Mrs. Smith in Riga: Robbery, Reconnaissance, and Recovery

OUR TIME IN – LATVIA
Have you ever wondered what the inside of a Latvian police station looks like? Us either, but we found out anyway. While we planned to post a combined blog on the entire Baltics, we are going out of turn and posting about our adventure in Riga, Latvia.

After being charmed by Estonia and Helsinki (those posts coming later) we arrived in Riga ready for another idyllic Old Town classified as a Unesco World Heritage site. However, our walk from the bus station to our hotel changed how we would spend our stay. Ten minutes after arrival we figured out our directions and were 100 yards on our way when Marc yelled out, "I was robbed!" and reached around to grab the culprit who he had felt in his back pocket. He found a shady guy behind him and forced him to empty all of the contents of his pockets but to no avail. We think the guy was guilty but suspected he had a partner who had quickly moved on with the wallet that was in the back pocket with Marc’s passport, cash and credit cards inside.

A police car arrived in less than five minutes and we jumped inside to circle the market area around the bus station to try to identify our thieves. Unable to locate them, we went on to the police station to file a report so we could have documentation in order to obtain a new passport for Marc. We left for our hotel defeated. What was supposed to be a quick overnight in Latvia seemed like it was going to be much longer.

After a lunch on the nice town square where Marc went through the seven stages of grief, we headed back to the hotel to execute on our grand plan. Marc changed clothes putting on plaid shorts, a tucked in shirt, and his Warby Parkers in place of jeans, t-shirt, baseball hat and contacts and Erinn changed shirts and added a ponytail. We were off to the scene of the crime. We walked around the area with Marc’s back pocket jammed with a fake wallet, holding a map openly and looking all around in false bewilderment. Erinn played lookout, trying to identify suspects. After a few laps of fishing, Erinn found someone that looked familiar and who seemed to be taking our bait.

Marc walked by him one last time and stopped walking ten feet behind him. When the suspect turned Marc was staring him directly in the eye. He seemed guilty, so Marc approached and said, "excuse me do you have the time?". After he hastily replied Marc said," I lost something here earlier and I believe you have it. You should open it and consider who you might be messing with. If you return it, you will not have any trouble. Feel free to keep the money." It is worth pointing out that, due to our time in Bahrain, Marc has 17 pages packed to the brim with purely Arabic stamps, four pages of Saudia Arabia visas, two pages of Indian visas, and one page of a Russian visa in his passport.

We left the area not knowing if our plan would work and headed back to the hotel to grab some much deserved shut eye on what had been a very long Sunday. Monday morning, we went to the US Embassy to apply for a new emergency passport so we could leave Riga as planned and move on to Lithuania. When we handed over the police report, the lady behind the counter said they had received a call from a man that was on his way to return Marc’s passport to the embassy. Amazingly, we left an hour later with the original in hand, booked a new bus to Lithuania and kept our original reservation at our hotel, all only eight hours behind our original schedule!

TAKEAWAYS
Prepared, Perturbed and Perceptive

His:
I made a huge rookie traveller mistake to have my passport in my back pocket. I never keep it there and it shows you never should. However, we were completely prepared for the event. We easily headed to the embassy with copies of everything lost, cancelled things quickly, and had cards and cash in three other locations ready for such an event. It was a good "dry run" to test our level of readiness for negative situations.

Hers:
Know your surroundings, remember faces and I don’t care much for Riga.

Theirs:
We are very fortunate. Maintaining awareness in foreign travel is always neccasary. We are also safely in Lithuania enjoying the change of scenery. No need to worry about us.

SEE AND BE SEEN

Riga bus station *
Old Town
Riga police department *
US Embassy of Latvia *

* must not do’s